Nivens Notes on Travel - Locations page

The United States of America is made up of 50 states; each having its own unique characteristic, which makes this country so fascinating to explore. When traveling here for the first time, it is immediately apparent that the land is vast and the whole concept of space and distance is multiplied in the minds of Americans, who live and travel hundreds of miles to major cities from remoter areas everyday, without batting an eyelid.
Roads are wide to cope with the large size of the average family car and the pace of driving, especially in rural areas, is slower than much of Europe, although the faster city freeways, (motorways) can be four lanes or more and motorists do not always indicate when changing lanes.
Winter driving in more mountainous regions and high passes requires cars with 4 wheel drive and all season tires with snow chains, or winter tires. Winter tires are usually required from the beginning of October until mid-April on cars without all-season tires.
Certain States with warmer climates may not tolerate cars with studded winter tires on their roads, at any time, since it wears down the tarmac.
Driving abilities and lawfulness seem comparatively less than the UK. When driving in rougher cities, such as Los Angeles, stay out of the way of aggressive drivers - as there are actual accounts of slower drivers being shot at.
Being armed is a way of life for many Americans and is part of their Constitutional right: 'to bear arms'.
When visiting an area marked: 'Private Property' - be prepared that the owners may, as an extreme example, defend their property with deadly force; therefore, trespassing is not advised.
During hunting season, be aware that any property boundaries marked with bright orange squares usually indicates an area where shooting/bow hunting is prohibited.
Debris, such as broken fenders and burst tyres, are strewn at the sides of some city roads, (like Chicago) and sometimes in the middle of them, so drive with caution at all times.
Note that each State in America has its own set speed limit, rules and regulations.
Roads systems are relatively simple to understand - even numbers go from East to West and odd numbers from North to South.
Drivers should note that both Federal and State Routes (or Motorways and Highways) may use the same Route numbers, but can be differentiated as follows: State signs are in black and white and Federal Highway signs are in red, white and blue.
Some Interstate Highways have toll gates and some are free, but toll gates are signposted when entering the system.
Roads also have small green mile markers at every mile along the side of the road; which is essential for pinpointing your location in any emergency situation.
It should also be noted that certain areas in America are prone to severe seasonal weather - such as: 'tornado alley' centered around Kansas, flooding in areas such as Texas, severe winter storms blown in by moisture from the Great Lakes and drought-fueled wildfires (now more common) in the west. Any medical problems which could be affected by smoke, such as asthma sufferers, or people who have low immune systems that could severely be affected by west Nile virus, (from mosquito bites in infested areas) should check current worldwide weather and health situations before traveling.
Religion plays a major part in American social life and local newspapers often advertise up to 20 different types of churches, or more, in a single town.
In small towns, the local police station may also be referred to as the Sheriffs Office.
Traveling in such a vast country means going through at least four different time zones, (Or six; if Alaska and Hawaii are included) Note that in certain areas connected between Idaho and Oregon - or Idaho and Washington, there are designated places which are in 'Mountain Time', which means gaining or losing one hour, but these are signposted at the roadside and should be shown in any good road map.
When talking about a town or city, note that there are towns named exactly the same, but in other States, so it is better to be specific and say, for example: Ashland, Oregon, or Ashland, Wisconsin.
Some newcomers may also mistake Washington D.C. as being the same as Washington State - when in fact they are at opposite ends of America - and Washington D.C. (on the East Coast) is a capitol city, which comprises the District of Columbia.
Nearly every State has its own Sales Tax, (equivalent to British VAT) which is added after the total on each bill - so account for this when going shopping, as sales tax is not usually included in the price tag you see on shop shelves.
It is standard practice to tip public services; for example, in restaurants - leave about 15% of the total bill, (as this is the only way some people make any money on such low wages) or 20%+ in an up-market restaurant, if the service includes more than three courses and is excellent.
Taxis average a tip of 15%, although on longer journeys, (above $35) try 10%. Still, tipping is up to each individual's discretion and should not be given for poor service.

Idaho
Idaho is famous for its potatoes, and is also the home of world class vodka.
The state of Idaho is fairly long, touching Canada in the North and Nevada and Utah in the South, also bordering on the famous Yellowstone National Park and the Grand Teton National Park (which are centered inside the State of Wyoming)
Several geological 'hot' springs can be found in Idaho and Native Americans used to bathe around these areas long before white men came.
With vast wilderness areas that encompass forests, high and low prairies and the Bitterroot Mountains bordering on Montana, one could easily spend a lifetime simply exploring the nature.
Idaho features unique wooden trestle railway bridges, as seen used in many Western films over the years, which are still used, though mainly to haul grain.
Known as the Gem State; Idaho has a great variety of natural minerals and many old mining tunnels, which can still be seen along the banks of rivers and mountains today.
Chinese miners came to the West during the gold rush and generations of their families still live here.
There are also gold panning tourist facilities to be found along the rivers, e.g. - between White Bird and Riggins.
The capital of Idaho is Boise and the population is slightly more than one million.
Some of the largest mountain lions (or cougars) in the world are found in Idaho and many people visit this state just to hunt - with ample game such as: elk, deer, bear and moose. Wolves also roam parts of Idaho and a larger breed of Canadian timber wolves were recently (and very controversially) 're-introduced' into the state - although originally, it was the smaller wolves only which used to populate Idaho and surrounding states.
Fishing among the long rivers that connect to the west coast provides some good salmon fishing, although by the time the fish swim this far inland, it is a slightly different taste to coastal caught fish.

Cottonwood
Cottonwood is a small town set next to Route 95 (running from Canada down to Mexico) which was first settled by Germans and many German surnames are apparent in the local family owned businesses and farms. It was also Austrians and Germans who brought over nuns from their own country to this area to educate their children; creating St. Gertrudes Monastery, which lies a few miles above the town of Cottonwood.
The unique chapel and surrounding buildings were hand built by the nuns from a local quarry and part of the chapel alter was brought over from a sister chapel in Austria.
The nuns at St. Gertrudes hold religious retreats, as well as workshops on subjects such as soap making and herbal salves and the nuns also work actively in the local community. A museum is built next to the monastery, where visitors can understand the contribution nuns and early settlers made to daily life, through some very interesting artifacts on display.

Dog Bark Park is well known in Cottonwood and the surrounding area for Dennis Sullivan and Frances Conklin's uniquely designed B & B guesthouse - shaped and painted in the form of a huge (and apparently the world's largest) beagle - named Sweet Willy. Accompanying Sweet Willy is a smaller, (and apparently the world's second largest) beagle, a fire hydrant, a carved canoe representing the famous expedition by Lewis and Clark with their dog, a man sitting at a picnic table and other eye-catching carvings guaranteed to bring a smile.
Set in full view of Route I 95 - the beagle entices many people to stop and explore the uniquely interesting and quirky chainsaw carvings for sale in the gift shop and studio next door; lovingly handmade by Dennis and Frances, who are more than happy to talk about their chainsaw craft.
Dog Bark Park has been featured all over the world in numerous newspaper articles, TV programmes, local events, and even on a website for the world's most interesting B & B's. Lodging for up to 4 persons in the Beagle B & B can be arranged through their website:
www.dogbarkparkinn.com

Cottonwood has a small airport, mainly for smoke jumpers and crop dusting aircraft.

Country Haus - Cottonwood
This is a family run restaurant set just off Route 95 on Foster Street.
The owner claims to have been cooking here for almost 50 years. Breakfast is available all day (unlike most other places, which stop serving after 11 a.m.) and food is quite varied, with generous portions. Evening meals are served with a freshly baked mini loaf and the numerous selection of home-baked fruit pies are interesting. I have eaten here several times and have found the restaurant facilities to be consistently clean, with quality service from the happy staff.

Grangeville
This is a fair sized town, with a single main street for shops and restaurants and a few more businesses along side streets.
Grangeville boasts a unique (and probably the smallest) glass museum - just big enough to house a woolly mammoth - which was found in Tolo Lake in the surrounding Camas Prairie.
Tolo Lake was named after the sister of the local Nez Perce chief, who tried to bring about peace between the tribe and the white settlers, before and during the Nez Perce wars.

Blue Fox Theatre is a small family run cinema on Main Street, which is a historic landmark and protected building. In summer, they use an outdoor drive-in cinema (a huge white wooden screen set in a field, at the edge of town) also known as the Sunset Autovue, which starts showing movies 'from sundown.'

Grangeville has a small airport, which is a drop off point for back country expeditions, private aircraft, crop dusters, sight seeing, smoke jumpers and forest fire suppression aircraft.
Grangeville also has a small golf course, (although coming from Scotland, I would say this is perhaps the flattest course I've ever seen)
Existing at 3300 feet,Grangeville is a high prairie town set at the base of the foothills to the Bitterroot Mountains - which offers a skiing area for snow sports enthusiasts known as Snowhaven. While it is certainly not challenging for experts, it is a wonderful place for pre-season equipment check-ups and to re-test one's form. This is particularly true, because at only one and a half hours drive south exists world-class Brundage Mountain, at McCall, Idaho.
Snowhaven is an unadvertised and secret place for those seeking the legendary Rocky Mountain powder skiing.
This is, however, run by a group of town leaders who deem it necessary to open and close the area on set dates every year, regardless of suitable weather conditions, along with the outdoor swimming pool in town. This can be bewildering to any dedicated ski enthusiast or swimmer.

Some of the best saddles in the world are made at the Ray Holes Saddle Shop, located on Main Street. Ray Holes Saddle Shop, at 70 years, is the oldest continually operating saddle business in Idaho, with an active collectors market and many saddles are shipped worldwide. This family run business can create almost anything out of leather, but is more likely to be found making traditional horse riding accessories and custom designed pieces, such as holsters, knife sheaths or belts at reasonable prices. The wooden saddle 'trees' (forming the very heart of a saddle) are custom shaped for each client's physical contours and decorated in intricate hand engraved, stained designs onto the leather. Service doesn't stop there: even the padding, artwork and usual necessities are uniquely fitted and designed for each person. Working cowboys, expedition organisers and equestrian competitors - all are welcome and routinely found sitting with John Calhoun or Evelyn Sanderson, discussing everything from world events to the finer points of horsemanship.
Tours of the entire 'start to finish' process can be arranged with three days notice.
The shop is an absolute 'candy store' for photo opportunists.

Ernie's Steakhouse- Grangeville
Decorated in a tasteful modern western theme, the well thought out mixture of cozy booth, family, or bar seating on different levels offers the steady stream of clientele a good choice; while they watch their dinner being cooked on a flaming grill, fired with an all-pervasive scent of cherry wood.
All in-house beef is guaranteed grass-fed cow from the owners '41' Ranch.
Proper cloth napkins, good sized quality glasses, individual touch lamps and recessed lighting create a more up-market feel to the usual small town atmosphere found locally. When first opened, expectations matched the recently built novelty of Ernie's Steakhouse in Grangeville, creating some much needed competition; in terms of quality decor, atmosphere and service.
Service in the bar area is excellent with generous sized drinks from the knowledgable bar tender, JoAnn, who orders in specific requests for regular customers.
The toilets are an interesting combination of plywood between the 2 stalls and black marble sink tops.
If you love a good steak cooked to perfection - this is absolutely the place for you.
(If, on the other hand, you are a hungry vegetarian - your choice is limited to a baked potato, side salad, or a grilled cheese sandwich from the children's menu)

Palenque - Grangeville
Family run Mexican restaurant on West Main Street; offering a good selection of tasty Mexican dishes, including a selection of vegetarian options.
Service was quick and tables clean. Leather boothed seating was not so clean.
Food portions were more than generous.
The toilets were not so clean.

Lewiston, Idaho
Lewiston is actually an inland seaport, although it is a ten hour drive from the coast and is a confluence of the Clearwater and Snake rivers.
Walkways and cycle paths run alongside some of the rivers and it gets very hot in the summer, with a slight tendency towards fog.
Lewiston is famous for its (much debated) odour, which comes from the Potlatch sawmill where sawdust is fermented in huge outdoor vats.
Most brand-name stores are gathered around a main hill area, with the older part of the city and industrial units along the river.

Wendt Pottery offers some interesting world class pottery where the owners use clays collected from around Idaho and volcanic ash from Mount St. Helens, (Washington) for the wonderful glazes.
Website: www.wendtpottery.com

Granny's Buffet - Lewiston
Set high on a hill offering a good view of the river and surrounding mountains, yet just a street away from busy commercial Thain Road.
Granny's Buffet offers a wonderful and varied buffet selection of fresh salads, cooked meals, desserts, ice creams and hot and cold drinks on tap.
At only $6.89 (£3.72 UK Sterling) for a lunch, ($6.29 for seniors) and a policy of all you can eat, this remains excellent value and also provides a great selection for all types of diets.
Plenty of seating, a good state of cleanliness and quiet staff attention make for a relaxed and pleasant atmosphere, without being hurried along.
Sometimes the aroma of cooked food becomes a little stale by the end of the day.
Toilet areas are usually kept clean.

Mandarin Pine - Lewiston
Set next to the main road, on 21st Street, the Mandarin Pine restaurant offers a good selection of Chinese food at reasonable prices.
The decor is full of typical Chinese carved dragons and symbols.
Tables were not properly wiped clean.
On certain nights, an excellent pianist plays soft background music.
Food and service were good.
NOTE: If you are allergic to monosodium glutamate, (m.s.g. flavour enhancer) ask the staff NOT to use it before ordering.

Red Lobster - Lewiston
If you enjoy seafood, try Red Lobster next time you are on the Thain Grade in Lewiston.
Wooden sea-themed decor gives it a refreshingly comfortable atmosphere.
I have tried the flounder, both broiled and fried on different occasions - which were equally tasty. The hot cheese scones (known as: 'biscuits' in America) which come wrapped in a cloth napkin with herb butter are very tasty. On the other hand, the heavy key lime pie I recently tried had hardly any taste at all.
Staff are usually always pleasant and the restaurant is kept clean, although I have sent back cutlery with dishwasher residue for cleaner ones several times.
www.redlobster.com

Thai Taste - Lewiston
Located just off Thain Road, on 1410 21st Street.
Simple seating (and somewhat touristy) Thai decor and smiling faces of this family run restaurant welcome visitors. The young girl taking the food order misheard several requests, although the food portions were very generous when they did arrive.
The food tasted as if MSG was added.
The young girl made the atmosphere slightly unpleasant for easy digestion by using window cleaner on the glass topped tables all around. Prices were very reasonable.
Open Tuesday to Sunday.

McCall, Idaho
McCall valley offers international levels of skiing at Brundage Mountain, while Payette Lake, at the north end of the city is used for numerous water sports and fishing. Because of this - McCall seems to attract more 'high-end' shops, restaurants and investment - compared to neighbouring areas and is often undergoing new construction.
Payette Lake and surrounding areas were the set for the movie classic: 'Northwest Passage.'
For a good map on McCall, try: www.discoverymap.com

Zimms Hot Springs, in the nearby New Meadows area, has two regulated outdoor geothermal pools, along with lodgings, although the buildings and pools could do with renovation. (The pools were cracked at the bottom, with algae around the sides)

Moxie Java, McCall, Idaho
On the corner of East Lake Street, lies a thriving espresso and juice bar, offering drooling coffee lovers up to 30 flavours, to sit in, or take home.
I tried a chocolate malted smoothie and have to rate it absolutely ten out of ten.
Moxie Java expresses bold city type decor, with a cleverly contoured background mirror, strong colours, tempered with cool marble table tops and a mixture of chair and booth seating.
Pleasant but extremely busy staff also offer pastries, ice cream, frappes and chai - and if the aromas don't tempt you inside the door in the first place, you probably don't have a sense of smell....

The Ponderosa Grill, McCall, Idaho
For hungry travelers (arriving along Route 55) needing an abundant quality sandwich with all the trimmings, this family owned Ponderosa Grill will be sure to satisfy everyone's tastes.
Decorated seasonally (with Pumpkins when I visited) around a corner fireplace and large flat TV screen, both booth and open tables offer a light, but cozy atmosphere, along with friendly staff.
On the menu can be: Elk, Angus, Buffalo, Kobe beef, or Garden (vegetarian) Burgers, homemade soups, or: Steak, Pear Salad, Pastrami, Beer Batter Fish and Chips Sandwiches, served on some amazing looking swirled rye sourdough breads.
If you have any room left after this lot - as they say on the menu - 'ask about our desserts to live for.....'
Clean, bright toilet has some interesting ancedotes on the walls, possibly for rainy days.

Riggins, Idaho
When entering the town of Riggins, the first thing you may notice are all the whitewater rafting companies advertised next to the main road running through town.
Set alongside the confluence of the Salmon River and Lower Salmon River, Riggins became a haven after the gold rush days fizzled out - for all day tripper and serious whitewater rafters alike - along with other water activities, fishing and hunting.
Entrances to old mines can be seen along the roads to Riggins and people still pan for gold in the rivers.
Riggins is 150 miles north of Boise, 120 miles South, South East of Lewiston - set in a canyon at 1800 feet - and the northernmost town in the Mountain Time Zone.

Wapiti River Guides, Riggins
When choosing a whitewater rafting company to go with, decide what type of trip you are after. If you prefer a jam-packed mass market experience, try the companies which advertise boat loads of screaming people in the middle of white waters. If, however, you prefer a small group of people and a guide who can tell you all about the history and nature of the river and surrounding mountains, try Wapiti River Guides on the main street of Riggins.
Run by Gary and Barb Lane, Wapiti River Guides offer whitewater river trips, fishing and Chukar hunts in a selection of Dory, raft, kayak and driftboats, with Dory boats being their specialty.
When entering the Wapiti office for the first time, I was struck by Barb's calmness and local knowledge of the river - and the fact that the Wapiti brochure photos of river trips showed calm, as well as whitewaters and stunning canyons, without boatloads of screaming people.
Barb informed me that they prefer to take between 2-8 people at any one time, allowing better quality of attention, although they also cater for larger groups by appointment.
Being a novice to any whitewater river experience, I chose a half day trip on a raft with a colleague and one other person for $59 (About £30 UK Sterling) per person - inclusive of sales tax and federal use fees - 2006. (Note that this price is for cash payment, as use of a credit card is 4% more.)
Our guide on this trip was Gary Lane, who has been taking people down the river since the 80's and who studied nature at the University of Oregon, along with his own personal studies of local and national history. This afforded us a good perspective and very informative appreciation of the landscape before us.
Gary first kitted us out in wetsuits and rendezvoused cars with Barb, where we were driven on narrow mountain roads and over bridges, (giving us a view of some whitewater we would later encounter) for quite a few miles, before setting the rubber raft in the water.
I elected to sit in the front of the boat, which I soon found out to be the wettest place, so I was glad to have worn clothes with man made fibers (as opposed to cotton) which dried off quicker; since the river was quite cold from ice melting off mountain peaks, even in June.
The back of the raft offers a bit more 'see-saw' action and Gary's experience and strength made guiding the raft look easy through varying degrees of whitewater - which I first thought might swamp the raft, but soon anticipated and enjoyed. Gary made sure we had enough to drink, although there were plenty of storage areas in the raft, for refreshments and extra clothing.
Our quiet ride down the river gave us an advantage over sneaking up on deer and nesting birds in calmer waters and watching the tiny sparkling pieces of mica (possibly day dreaming of gold) gleaming in the green water. After several hours of alternating between getting wet and drying off in the sun (I was glad to have worn a broad rimmed hat, and sunglasses on a string) we all felt relaxed, (and a bit crispy) as we drifted up to the landing ramp and helped Gary to haul the raft onto the trailer, before peeling off the wetsuits and heading home. My colleague and I are already planning who to bring on the next trip.
Website: www.doryfun.com

The Seven Devils, Riggins, Idaho
Set next to the main road in Riggins, with the wooden front entrance of a bar, the Seven Devils offers a side walkway entrance to a porch shaded with vines and an inner restaurant. Known for its good choice of pizzas and Italian based food, I have eaten here several times and found their generous 8-inch pizzas larger than I could handle. Service is great, although the outer building structure and toilet are a bit on the worn side.

Whitebird, Idaho
This small town, nestled at the base of some spectacular mountain terrain is named after Chief Whitebird of the Nez Perce Indians, who led the first battle in 1877 against the US Government, brought about by unrest of the encroachment of white settlers on Indian land. Details of this battle, ending in victory for the Nez Perce can be found at historical road sites on the old and new highways along Route 95, north of the town of Whitebird.
Small plant fossils can also be found on the Old Grade (road) winding up in switchbacks that afford visitors changing views of the smooth hills, north of the town.
Set along a river, Whitebird is also known for its hot temperatures soaring just over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) in summer, with many locals growing plants long before other on higher prairie ground have even sown.
Some interesting old wooden structures housing bars - both used and abandoned - lie in the middle of town.

New York
Many first time foreign visitors to America are surprised to learn that the city of New York is actually a city within the much larger State of New York.
This state offers a wonderfully vast change in scenery, the further out you travel and should really be explored if you have the time.
Probably the most well known and visited area in the state of New York is Niagara Falls, near the city of Buffalo, which also borders on Ontario, Canada.
Of particular scenic beauty is the famous Adirondack National Park - the largest Park in America - known for its unique log homes and summer cabins set within quiet wooded lakes and mountains.
This is a traditional summer retreat area for New Yorkers, so be prepared to go further afield to find decent prices on accommodation.
Long Island is also in the State of New York, which is indeed, aptly named at 127 miles long and holding up to 1600 miles of coastline.
Long Island offers the fisherman a vast range of both fresh and saltwater fishing - from deep sea to fly fishing.
The Long Island Expressway (Route 495) is the main highway (motorway) up to Riverhead, where it splits south to Montauk Point and north to Orient Beach, with Shelter Island, Gardiners Island, privately owned Robins Island, Plum Island, (unapproachable because of 'agricultural research') and Gull Island - with its disintegrating military forts, all accessible only by boat.
Despite the influence of New York City, Long Island is still somewhat of a cultural 'diamond in the rough'.

New York City, New York
For a less touristy, but fascinating side of New York City - head along to West 47th Street - where you will find a bustling subculture of jewelry experts hard at work.
I managed to discover some excellent bargains along West 47th Street, when picking up findings and having some jewelry set, re-sized, polished and cleaned, along with interesting conversations on the intricacies of this often secretive and highly skilled craft.
In the company of an experienced and former NYCPD Detective who knew the street well, I began my '47th Street Experience'.
I first chose my jewelry findings - the actual precious metal surrounds - at A. Herschlag Findings, Inc., at 41 West 47th Street. These creations were right from the caster. The counter people were kind to me with my rather small purchase. They offered knowledgeable and friendly advice and complimented the rare foreign stone I had brought.
Onward to number 37 West 47th Street, where within a complex of tiny booths, I was taken to booth #11 and was introduced to Enrique, also known as C.E. Santos, an expert diamond setter. Enrique talks while his hands speed over precious objects. Tools fly around, precious stones are sized to findings, miniature pliers bend and fold, tiny grinders whirr until your stone has found a home. While waiting for parts to become whole, I found Mr. Norman Erberber at booth #57 and had jewelry carefully re-sized.
Mr. Erberber specialises in both modern and antique jewelry repairs, with all sorts of fascinating gadgets and tools packed into his compact booth.
Back at Enrique's booth, I was presented with the finished setting, and following my approval, was sent up to the Polisher. There, on the mezzanine above Enrique, was a very active window where other hopefuls gathered with their unfinished treasures and awaited this final step. I was allowed to watch the processes closely and witnessed my ring being subjected to steam blasts and three different buffing wheels. In a matter of minutes and for the princely sum of only $10.00 (£5.00 UK Sterling!) I was presented with finished products that warranted a position in a fine shop window AND I had watched its whole creation!
The whole start to finish round of experts took just a couple of hours - enough time to go and pick up another bargain at The Oldest Watch House on 47th Street, in the same complex. Moving Time Around The World Inc., run by Eddie Santana, (to the right of the main entrance) offers a full range of all well known World Class watches, at excellent prices that I have not found anywhere else.
E-mail: movingtime@aol.com

An additional experience and hunger satisfaction awaited me in Berger's Delicatessen. Berger's is a must see and experience. It is in the middle of 'the Street' on the south side. For those who appreciate New York Pastrami this is nirvana. A Doctor Brown's Cream Soda, a good pastrami, a good Kosher Dill, and some fantastic fries will get you an eye witness seat to this lunch time hub of 'the Street'. Here Corky, the timeless red haired hostess, will serve you and provide opinions and observations on life that could only come from a true New Yorker. Corky, I am told, is the heart of Berger's.
It was important and comforting for this newcomer to 'the Street' to witness New York's Finest everywhere. I was informed by my escort that there would likely be an equal number of not very obvious plain clothes policemen as well.
I left 'the Street' exhausted for its commotion and new information - but treasured the privileged knowledge and insight into one of New York's most hidden sub cultures.

New York City subway is divided into different lines, with specific colours for each line to navigate your way around them, and numerous accesses down stairs from street corners. Maps of the different coloured lines can usually be found in the stations and on the trains. Tickets are purchased either from automatic vending machines, (which take cash and credit/debit cards) with various day or single use options - or from the attendants in the booths, located before going through the turnstiles. You will need your ticket to swipe through the turnstiles, but not to exit the turnstiles (as opposed to some cities)
The stations and trains are fairly well lit, and although usually litter free, have a very 'well used', almost grimy feel to them.
The distinct metal trains are extremely fast, so stand behind the yellow lines when possible, and if you've heard of the famous expression - "in a New York minute!" - this is aptly appropriate.
For security purposes, try and sit with your bag firmly placed next to you, or between your legs and away from the side that the train door opens.
There seems to be almost a little subculture of characters that use the subway for entertaining and asking for money, although posters on the trains advise you to give only to established charities.
With the constant movement of zippy trains and so many stairwells, it can sometimes feel like you are in a wind tunnel and train vibrations can often be felt when standing in building basements and on pavements. (sidewalks)
If using the Airtrain and subway from the airport into New York City for the first time, be aware that you may find it very confusing (and slightly threatening at night) with very little obvious signposting for foreign visitors. I would certainly not recommend it late at night - especially if you are tired and have luggage, although with constant security threats in the city, police are often present in the stations. (They also give directions.) Have a subway map handy if possible.
Passengers with large luggage are usually required to use the elevators, as opposed to the escalators.
Several days before a security alert in October, I used the subway with large luggage coming from the airport, but was not once searched on either the Airtrain or the subway, despite several police officers being present in the stations.

Central Park, New York City
An oasis of green in the middle of such a fast paced city like New York is a wonder to both locals and tourists alike.
Originally planned by Frederick Law Olmstead and English-born architect, Calvert Vaux in 1853, Central Park was officially opened in 1859 and later expanded in 1863, to 843 acres.
Birds of prey and turtles are readily seen amongst the usual squirrels and pigeons, with a wonderful range of greenery, often growing out of the natural (geologically interesting) rocks that rise above pathways throughout the park.
It was disappointing to come across the boating pond filled from bank to bank with thick, green, foul smelling algae, when it could easily be remedied with copper filtration.
Only tourists seemed to be venturing out in the otherwise pleasant pond, for a relaxing row in the heat of the day, watched by small turtles from the banks.
Once free, a side attraction for children and families now charges viewers to look at a small rock pool with several (bored) sea lions, amongst other animals.
Vendors selling hot dogs, pretzels, ice cream and drinks can be found at various points throughout the park, along with the odd street musician, portrait artist and balloon modeler. Beware of zippy cyclists and all forms of rollers and skaters - who often wear headphones and are usually pretty oblivious to slow-paced walkers.
Parts of the park smell of stale urine, especially under bridges.
Website: CentralPark.com

Hanson Cab rides in Central Park, New York City
In good weather, taking a Hanson Cab ride from the entrance on Sixth Avenue around Central Park is truly recommended when wanting to become familiar with the large layout of the Park and the important residences and history on the park's perimeter. My colleagues and I took a good look at each horse, cab and owner before ending up with a very informative and enthusiastic Irishman called Declan and his brand new horse named Scottie. We took a gentle half hour ride in the spring sunshine, with Scottie walking or trotting steadily amidst a sea of park goers - roller-blading, cycling, walking, dancing, sunbathing, picnicking and even getting married under some spectacular cherry blossom laden trees.
The horses are used to traffic before ever coming to the city, after being broken in by the Amish communities in Pennsylvania - where, Declan informed us, the horses also return every six weeks for some rest and recuperation of six weeks, so that they never get too stressed from the bustle of the city.
Declan seemed to know all of the old history and modern facts of Central Park's many statues, monuments, fields and surrounding buildings and seemed to enjoy imparting facts which left my colleagues and I refreshed and eager to explore further on foot.
A 25 minute ride costs about: $40 (£24.00 U.K. Sterling) and 40 minute ride costs: $75 (£45.00 U.K. Sterling) - 2006 prices - with the cab holding up to six people.

Guggenheim Museum, New York City
If you are walking through Central Park and come out onto Fifth Avenue, you may find yourself on a street full of artists selling their artwork around MOMA - the Museum of Modern Art. Just a short walk up on 5th Avenue and across the street, you will find the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Guggenheim Museum.
The entrance fee cost: $18.00 (£9.70 British Pounds Sterling) per adult, (2005) although this didn't seem to discourage the usual long queues of visitors.
Viewers can either walk up the spiral ramp, leading around the cleverly designed oval gallery, or grab the small lift and start from the top of the spiral, (walking easily downwards) catching tantalising glimpses of artwork from across the open plan spiral structure.
I was fortunate enough to view an interesting and stunning exhibition on Russian art through the ages, including some precious golden religious icons, guarded under protective lighting.
Visitors were not searched on entering and since tickets were not checked, they could easily have been re-used by other people.
There seemed to be a constant queue for the single toilet on each floor, and for the money paid, the windows and nooks of the building could have been kept much cleaner.
Website: www.guggenheim.org/

Liberty Helicopter Tours, New York
An excellent way to orientate yourself with the layout of New York City and especially Manhattan, is to take a helicopter tour from one of the three locations offered by Liberty Helicopters; the West Side Heliport - at 12th Ave. and West 20th Street, Downtown (Wall Street) Heliport - at Pier 6 and the East River, or Paulus Hook Pier - at Jersey City, New Jersey. The West Side and Paulus Hook Pier Heliports are open 7 days, all year, with the Downtown Heliport closed on Sundays and Holidays, with reservations required.
I tried the 'New York, New York' tour from the West Side Heliport, $179 (£105 U.K. Sterling - 2006) taking 15-17 minutes - south down the Hudson River, passing Ellis Island for a close up of the Statue of Liberty, with views of Governors and Staten Island, then returning north up the Hudson past the Aircraft Carrier USS Intrepid, to view all the well-known buildings, skyscrapers, stadiums, bridges and parks of the city before heading back.
I was glad to have made a reservation, but was not so impressed by the slightly dismissive attitude of the men at the ticket counter, who took a long time to issue a simple paper ticket. Passengers then sat in the same area as those standing in line to buy a ticket until names were called and a security check given, before standing in an adjacent room to watch a video on safety issues. Another slightly bored member of staff handed out life vests that attached round the waist and the safety video was only half way through before I was shown out of a sliding door to the helipad with 6 other passengers. The casual looking ground crew lined up passengers in small groups, in front of the helicopters to take a digital photo, which was then available for sale in the small shop for $20 (£11.76 U.K. Sterling) when leaving, (which is also a good security move; if anything were to happen - passengers can be identified later.)
Once strapped in and headphones on, the pilot took us up without much comment, as he informed us there was "a lot of air traffic going on" but flew calmly and pretty smoothly all the way, hovering for passengers taking photos through the windows at key points. (If you get air sick at all, take something before flying, as the banking/turning action of the craft may make you slightly nauseous for a few seconds.)
The small, almost temporary looking building felt cramped inside, with people queuing out of the door by the time I left and there was only one toilet available.
My colleague commented on how unusually close the helicopter landing pads were to the actual building - literally a stones throw away - and I consequently wondered how a sudden wind gust might affect the safety of all concerned, inside and out of the building as we landed in slightly gusty conditions.
Liberty Helicopters has been safely flying in New York for 20 years, in climate controlled EC-130 jet helicopters, with military and/or NYPD pilots, and all the seats face forward.
Website: www.libertyhelicoptertours.com

St. Patrick's Cathedral, New York City
If you are in need of some spiritual upliftment in the middle of the city, you can always count on a visit to St. Patrick's Cathedral; with its cool high arches, beautiful carvings and intricate blue stained glass windows to calm and sooth the pace of travel.
Built mainly by the Irish, this atmospheric Catholic Cathedral can still be found as the focal point for many Irish visitors - especially during the busiest time of St. Patrick's Day in mid-March - lit up by hundreds of candles glittering in all the different alcoves.
After walking around the city for several hours, I was lucky enough to enter and hear (my first) remembrance Mass - for a prominent Cardinal, with some acoustically superb singing, captured in close-up by TV view screens placed on the main pillars.
President Reagan once aptly observed: "If God is not in here, He must be out of town!"
Security guards may search visitors bags on entry and some of the side doors may be closed during certain ceremonies.
Website: www.ny-archdiocese.org/

Hayden Planetarium at the Rose Center for Earth and Space, American Museum of Natural History, New York City
Having never been to a planetarium, I thought I would visit the internationally acclaimed Hayden Planetarium at the Rose Center for Earth and Space, opened in February 2000 - located next to and within the vast range of fascinating buildings that comprise the American Museum of Natural History.
Located on the West side of Central Park, at 79th Street, the inviting glass front, with an inwardly suspended sphere and curved entrances draw visitors down to the start of their journey of discovery.
The whole experience takes the viewer through a series of fascinating, factual and moving displays, containing real meteorites and different types of rock samples that make up our earth, as the viewer gradually moves up towards the spherical theatre, housing hourly shows and approached in the pretense of journeying in a spaceship.
My choice of show was: The Search for Life: Are We Alone? Narrated by Harrison Ford - the theme being the search for extraterrestrial life, originating with Earth's place in the galaxy construct. This makes the viewer acutely aware of the infinitesimal size of our relatively small planet among its circling neighbours.
The light show was viewed on the all encompassing, concave domed ceiling, with a specially made multiplex of Carl Zeiss lenses rising up quietly from a previously concealed console in the centre. All viewing positions are in the recline, on comfortable chairs - with the audience sitting positioned within a circle. The accompanying auditory programme is equally and technically of high caliber and the whole experience is one I will never forget.
Viewers are advised not to use cameras and recording equipment in the theatre, although at least one person annoyingly used their mobile phone, (which lit up) to record the spectacle.
Viewers then exit down a spiral arm with even more displays - tracing the age of our Universe to the next theatre, which shows a brief theory of the 'Big Bang' within a basin, viewed from the round walkway above.
Other Planetarium shows available were: Passport to the Universe, and the: Sonic Vision Music Show. Shows available in the nearby Lefrak IMAX Theatre include: Jane Goodall's Wild Chimpanzees, and: Vikings: Journey to New Worlds.
My personal favourites of all the displays were: the digital scales which showed your actual weight if you were to stand on the moon and a constantly updated earthquake advisory screen from quake zones all over America and around the world.
As you walk in the entrance, your bags may be slightly searched - as no cameras, recording equipment, food or drink are allowed in the theatres.
Theatre tickets, (bought to the right of the entrance) to all shows are $22.00 (£11.95 UK Sterling) for adults, per show and $16.50 (£8.96 UK Sterling) for seniors.
If you are thinking of taking out a membership with the museum, keep your theatre ticket (intact) to redeem a $10.00 discount at the membership desk.
The clean Museum Food Court offers a decent selection of self serve salad bars at .50¢ per ounce, which is weighed at the till. Also available are Northwest/Southwest Cafe on the 4th floor and Cafe 77 on the first floor.
Other facilities include: Assisted Listening devices, coat check area, museum shops, elevators, telephones and ATMs.
Toilets are free, clean and wheelchair accessible.
As a seasoned museum visitor, this child and adult interactive friendly Planetary exhibition is about the most entertaining center I have ever come across and I would highly recommend a whole day's visit to take it all in.
The American Museum of Natural History and Hayden Planetarium can be accessed by subway train - B and C lines at 81st Street Subway station/Central Park West.
Website: www.amnh.org

The Broadway Diner, New York City
Located at 590 Lexington Avenue, this constantly bustling diner offers a view of busy Lexington Avenue from its large windows.
The decor is simple, with floor to ceiling mirrors at one end and fairly tight spaces between tables.
The menu reflects the cultural diversity of the city's tastes; including a good selection for breakfasts, lunches and dinners. (Well, I almost tried the pumpkin pancakes....)
Service was speedy, considering the crowd of people - although part of the order was incorrect, yet quickly replaced. Tables were clean.
Credit cards could not be used, only cash.
The Broadway Diner also offers corporate accounts and catering for events.

Caffe Linda, New York City
Located on 145 E. 49th Street (between Lexington and 3rd) in midtown Manhattan, this cosy little bustling Italian restaurant offers excellent authentic Italian dishes in a candlelit setting.
Ingredients on the menu included such things as dried ricotta cheese, saffron and truffle oil, so the slightly higher, (though reasonable for New York) prices reflected this fact.
The speedy waiters were attentive without being imposing and the whole atmosphere was obviously busy, but wholly inviting.
The antipasti and pasta dishes were full of flavour and done just right, while the hazelnut chocolate ice-cream dessert was an experience in itself.

Chumley's, New York City
This establishment is currently closed, due to the chimney collapsing in 2007.
The entrance to this small bar/restaurant specializing in serving mainly hearty beers and Indonesian food by the somewhat casual staff, can be found at 58 Barrow Street - with the entrance to the restaurant at an unadvertised, and very residential looking, 86 Bedford Street (- but those are the only two I knew about.)
Renowned since the 1850's for hosting some interesting, educated and 'politically active' clientele, Chumley's survived and thrived throughout the prohibition years with its own secret passageways and hidden doors.
During times of the so called prohibition of alcohol - when police would raid and demand entry at 58 Barrow Street, inebriated guests would be taken out of the building at 86 Bedford Street, hence the expression: to '86' something, meaning: to get rid of something.
An arched entrance off Barrow Street leads to a small courtyard, which is also shared by two old apartment complexes. This entrance smelled of stale urine and had several old dogs sleeping on wooden benches near the entrance, with sawdust on the floors - but it somehow adds to the atmosphere. You can catch echoes of former heated conversations by famous writers, artists, poets and activists; timelessly captured in photos, pictures and books covering the walls - while you sit slightly crammed into wooden tables, scratched with an eon of messages and initials.

Rocco's Pastry Shop & Cafe, New York City
Located at 243 Bleecker Street, this traditional Italian pastry shop and cafe invited my eye from its large, well-lit windows.
Clean counters with neatly stacked fresh cakes and delicately finished pastries; full of chocolate, nuts and creams would make anyone think they were in pastry heaven and want to try out every single crumb.
Coffees, teas and a selection of your choice from the bright counters are served by friendly smiling staff at traditional marble tables.
The coffee was brewed just right and the chocolate filled pastries were exquisite.
I watched a steady stream of locals come in to purchase neatly boxed cakes, pastries and ice creams to take away - while others quietly made it a treat with their children to sit in.
Website: www.roccopastryshop.com

Sixth Avenue Cafe, New York City
Set at 58th Street, near the end of Sixth Avenue, this bustling and slightly cramped restaurant offers a good selection of breakfasts, lunch and dinner all day. Portions are generous and service fairly zippy from the obviously busy staff.
My colleague was served salmon mixed in with a salad - still with bones attached and promptly choked on one - proving that any fish mixed in such a fashion is a potential recipe for disaster.
Although table areas were clean, the only toilet available was narrowly attached to the kitchens and was quite 'well-used'.

Port Jefferson, (Long Island)New York
This busy, popular village port, at the middle of the north shore on Long Island, can be quite overrun during peak holiday seasons, so it is advisable to book accommodation well in advance.
While Port Jefferson is a tourist attraction, one should not forsake the benefit of the countless small communities that lie east and west of Port Jefferson.
These quiet, gentle towns and communities are quite typical of the New England atmosphere that exists further up the north east coast of America.
Take exit #64 north, off the Long Island Expressway to Port Jefferson Village.

The Bridgeport and Port Jefferson Steamboat Company has been crossing over the scenic Li Sound between Connecticut and New York (State) since 1883.
The large (car) 'Port Jeff" Ferry to Bridgeport, Connecticut, costs $14.50 (£7.88 UK Sterling) per (foot passenger) person, (including port tax) one way - 2003 price - which offers suitable handicapped accessibility and a very speedy ride - crossing 16 miles in 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Food on board was mostly of the (fried) snack variety and stewed coffee in styrofoam cups is not my idea of real coffee.
Live entertainment on board can be found on Wednesday and Saturday nights during certain seasons.
Website: www.portjeffferry.com

NOTE: When arriving late at night on the last ferry into the industrial port of Bridgeport, Connecticut, I found only one taxi available in a dark corner with two very suspicious looking (foreign) men. When I refused their beckonings, the car followed me until I asked one of the ferry staff (who was going home) for assistance - so be sure to check for onward transport arrangements when travelling by foot.

Claudio's, Greenport (Long Island)
Well known in the area for excellent seafood cuisine and comfortable nautical themed decor, this long established bar and restaurant is built on the pier, with good views of the harbour from the dining area.
Staff were friendly and accommodating, the food fresh and abundant and my colleagues tried all sorts of seafood dishes deemed splendid, judging by the empty plates and smiling faces. My pasta dish was adequate and prices were reasonable for this area.
Website: www.claudios.com

Danfords, Port Jefferson (Long Island)
For a truly excellent gourmet dining experience, try Danfords - at 25 East Broadway, Port Jefferson. Situated by the waterfront with romantic sunset views of the harbour, incoming Bridgeport ferry and Long Island Sound, this well established Inn, Conference Center, Marina and Restaurant offers a touch of New England charm, just 50 miles from New York City.
I dined here twice with different colleagues, as I was impressed by the professional and quietly understated service, exquisite starters and seafood dishes - all elegantly arranged with creative edible decorations, surrounded in colourful, delicate sauces. Our host, Griselda provided an alternative without any hestiation when asked to provide a vegetarian option, (not shown on the menu) and served with quiet smiles and a very helpful presence throughout the dining experience.
My colleagues reported the roasted duck and crisped yellow fin tuna were some of the best tasting and well prepared dishes they had come across, while the garlic pasta with baked vegetables was excellent.
Desserts such as the creme brulee and delicately dusted hazelnut ice cream in a chocolate encrusted nut bed with a coffee sauce, topped off with rich, smooth cappuccinos made all diners concerned happily contented - as the sun slowly set through the large wood framed windows.
Portions were also generous, given the gourmet artwork prepared on all dishes served, (normally seen only as anaemic offerings in overly expensive city restaurants) leaving diners satisfied and eager to return. Prices reflect quality and good service throughout. In peak season, and especially at weekends, it may be advisable to reserve a table in advance.
Website: www.danfords.com

June 2007
My colleagues and I decided to try eating at Danford's by the waterfront on a pleasant summer evening. This particular Friday was apparently a live music night, although when we sat down to order, the noise level was acceptable. Our dinner duly arrived - excellently prepared and presented by attentive staff, as in previous visits - when the music seemed to go up to a level where we literally had to shout to hear each other talk. Efforts by our most apologetic waitress to turn the volume down resulted in an even higher volume, and perhaps the management decided people were becoming immune to the noise or not applauding said entertainer much, but we decided before dessert that we had had enough and took our business promptly elsewhere.

Eastern Pavilion, East Setauket (Long Island)
October 2006
If you enjoy Chinese and Japanese sushi cuisine, try the Eastern Pavilion - located along Route 25A on the road to the Port Jefferson ferry.
The simple decor hides the fact that the menu is full of choies for many types of diet and the service quietly pleasant.
My colleague tried fish that was brought to the table and cut up at length by the young waitress, who unfortunately cut incorrectly and ended up mixing bones into the main dish. My crispy tofu was just fine and the portions were abundant.
Prices were a little on the expensive side, but probably normal for this area of Long Island.
Clientele have a choice of eating at the sushi bar, the banquet room, or the private Tatami room, with take-out options available.

IL Miradoro, Port Jefferson (Long Island)
Advertised as a Northern Italian Continental Restaurant, this very much family run establishment lies at 154 West Broadway, near the port docks.
The main dining area upstairs housed impressive heavy timber exposed beams in the roof structure, with views of the harbour and suitably Italian music.
Our table was greeted by a very confident 8 year old, telling us to "enjoy your meal!", although towards the end of the evening, it was evident that the whole family were getting a little mixed up as to who had taken our order and wished us: "enjoy!" and we were certainly never far away from service.
My broccoli and garlic pasta was good, if a little heavy on the garlic by the time I almost managed to finish the abundant amount in the bowl.
Dessert came rolled along on a tall trolley; with obvious competition between the 8 year old and his sibling as to the deliciousness of each cake, handled with flourishes and much vocal enthusiasm all round.
The gelato was fine, although the coffee was not the freshest decaf available.
Website: www.ilmiradoro.com

O'Mally's, Southold (Long Island)
October 2006
Colleagues took me here for dessert out of the cold and we were immediately greeted by warmth and the quiet, uniformed staff and owner, who lent it quite an Irish atmosphere.
We all tried the different fruit pies served with cream or ice cream and my blackberry pie was truly 'melt in the mouth' and obviously freshly made.
Set off route 48 (North Road) towards the Cross Sound Ferry, O'Mally's is open until midnight, every night.

Pasta/Pasta, Port Jefferson (Long Island)
For fine dining in this busy seaport try Pasta/Pasta at 234 East Main Street.
Offering excellently presented salads, wraps, pasta and fresh daily dishes etc. on an extensive and interesting menu.
This restaurant was very busy during a weekday at lunchtime, so reserve a space (there is an option of booking online through their website) if you hope to get in at peak times.
Chef/owner of 27 years Steve Sands and partner Jules Buitron, who has been in the business for 10 years, have decorated Pasta/Pasta in a Tuscan Villa style, with wooden flooring and tables, story book window, fine cutlery and interesting alcoves with subtle lighting. (The only area needing attention was a section of ceiling near the front window.)
In contrast to this otherwise pleasant dining experience, my colleague and I sat next to the window by the entrance, but were dismayed to be constantly watching groups of people smoking within one and a half feet from our window table, with smoke drifting into the building, without being moved along by staff.
The food was very well prepared, with attentive and polite staff, who apologized for the rumpus being caused by screaming children at an adult party, running around in the back room.
I chose a coconut sorbet for dessert, served in a coconut shell which was nicely made, although the decaffeinated coffee, which was served in a huge cup, lacked a decent flavour.
www.pastapasta.net

Portofino, Port Jefferson (Long Island)
Set just off the main thoroughfare of Port Jefferson, on 34 E. Broadway, this Italian restaurant is situated upstairs, with only a slight view of the harbour through other buildings on the water front, which seemed a shame with so many windows built in that direction. My colleague and I arrived early for dinner, with only one other couple in the large, bright dining area and the waiter was extremely quiet.
Our pasta dishes were a little on the bland side for $13.00 (£6.80 UK Sterling) each, though the portions were huge. The decaf coffee was not fresh and there was no ice cream on the menu, which we thought was a little unusual for an Italian restaurant.

Provisions, Sag Harbour (Long Island)
If you enjoy very fresh and healthy food, try Provisions Natural Foods Market and Cafe, on the corner of Bay and Division Street. All the juices are freshly squeezed, food as organic/free range as possible, with a good choice of vegetarian food and service given with a smile. Small tables are kept clean, portions are generous and prices are very reasonable. Open seven days a week, year-round, the Cafe serves food to sit in or take out from: 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., with the juice bar and well-stocked shop open slightly longer.

Soundview Restaurant, Greenport (Long Island)
Set along the north fork area of Greenport, along Route 48 - Soundview Restaurant offers a relaxing view of Long Island Sound from its large windows.
Built right on the edge of the shore, diners can watch vast sunsets over the water, while tasting some superb seafood from an interesting menu. Candles were lit as the sun went down and fresh seeded rolls and crackers were on supply throughout, along with generous Caesar salads and spring rolls for starters.
I was offered a garlic and spinach pasta vegetarian dish alternative, which was tasty. My colleagues seemed to enjoy themselves; getting stuck-in to huge dishes of fresh shrimps, mussels, lobster and clams, with shells piled up in huge heaps and fingers red from the sauce. Prompt service by a very down to earth New Yorker, with a typical dry but warm sense of humour seemed to suit the location, rounding off the evening with what was eloquently described by our hostess as "some kind of a chocolate pom-pom thing" and good quality coffees.
Highly recommended.
Soundview also caters for special events, with a closed off seating area available.
Website: www.soundviewrest.com

Soup's On, Stony Brook (Long Island)
Just off the main North Country Road, (and not far from the train station) in Stony Brook lies a small restaurant specializing in huge pots of soups and wraps to sit in or take out. With a range of 31 soups, such as: white bean escarole, carrot ginger, Hungarian mushroom, Italian wedding with meatballs and Gazpacho, to name a few, there are options for everyone, served with a roll and crackers. Thin bread wraps, consisting of sun-dried tomato, wheat or spinach flavours are generous and also full of choices and large orders can be catered for in advance.
2007
Obviously a popular place, with queues out of the door - but woefully understaffed at lunchtimes (usually one student doing the work of 3) Parts of the kitchen and stoves needed some deep cleaning attention.
Irish owned and managed - prices are very reasonable and tables kept clean.

Oregon
Geologists would literally have a field day in many of Oregon's richly diverse wilderness areas.
Hikers would also need a few pairs of boots just to explore many of Oregon's coastlines, parks, deserts and forests.
Whale watchers can take strolls along the vast shorelines of the Pacific Ocean and spot whales, sea otters and other marine life and many famous lighthouses can still be viewed along the wildly pounded cliffs.
For avid rock-hounds, High Lava Plains lie to the east, with some of the most recent faults and youngest volcanic activity in America, preserved in the High Desert moon-like plains of Oregon.

Columbia River Highway, on Interstate route 84, is the best way to get a taste of the High Desert, along with many detours to beauty spots and waterfalls. The expansive Columbia River is almost a paradox, as it runs through such a barren-looking but pungently sage scented landscape, dotted with tiny colourful sails competing with huge freight tankers on a windy day.

Oregon is a state divided by mountains, with the Cascade Range across its length, from north and south, producing entirely differing climates. West of the Cascades is a mild, moist marine climate, with lush forests and the rich crop land of Willamette Valley leading from in-between the Cascades down to the coast. East of the Cascades is High Desert country.
Oregon is also home to 35 wilderness areas, 11 national forests and the national park of Crater Lake, with 50% of its forests being publicly owned.
One of the more ecologically progressive states, Oregon already contains vast fields of thousands of wind turbine generators, found in less populated regions of the high desert scrub and is quite a sight to admire.

It should be noted and remembered that Oregon Highway regulations are thoroughly and professionally enforced. It is not uncommon for users of State roadways to be viewed from above, front, back and sideways. In order to control drivers 'under the influence', Oregon prohibits ANY opened beverage while a vehicle is in motion.

Many Scandinavian names can be found in Oregon and perhaps this is the reason for so much creativity on display in buildings and artwork, especially in the west, with the odd copper roofed building still found in downtown Portland.
For more general information on Oregon, try: www.el.com/to/oregon/

Hood River, Oregon
Once a sleepier town, Hood River now caters to the explosion of wind-surfers and water sports enthusiasts who flock here in their shorts and VW camper-vans, in a cool state of constant angst to get back onto the river.

Bette's Place, Hood River
Bette's Place restaurant, on Oak Street, started as a small, family run business in 1975, by Bette Walters and has since expanded four times, still being run by Bette's daughter and son-in-law, Gay and Gary Jones.
Bette occasionally pops in to bake her own secret recipes of cinnamon rolls and muffins, etc.
Service was quick but the waitress seemed either distracted or very bored. My breakfast of soggy French toast came with a piece of unwashed frilly old cabbage and a hair.
Breakfast is served all day and Bette's Place is open 7 days a week, from 5:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

Dog River Coffee Co., Hood River
A slightly overwhelmingly large, but minimally furnished space greets customers as they walk in, along with the delicious aroma of well selected world coffees served at a long counter.
The chocolate chip scone was enough for two people and the fresh banana smoothie was abundantly oozing out of the (plastic) cup.
Wall decorations included an interesting selection of record album covers.
Toilet was clean; although the lock was unsecure and someone managed to open the door while I was still in there.

Mount Hood, Oregon
Located on route 26 east, (or slightly southeast) of Portland, Mount Hood stands at an impressive 11,240 feet high, with an average of 400 inches of snow every year, attracting worldwide snow sport enthusiasts year round.
The nearby Timberline Lodge stands at 6000 feet, was hand-built in 1937 by government workers under President F. Roosevelt during the Depression and is an amazing feat of artistic abilities in the wilderness.
Workers walked six miles each way to base camp, every day, in order to access the building site and simply clearing a roadway there took three months before actual building work began.
Timberline Lodge is full of paintings, carved linoleum, stained glass, pottery, sculpted wood, stone and metal work, made mostly on site, with a theme of native animals carved into the great wooden stair-rails and forged into iron work.
Gourmet dining and fine Oregon wines, under executive chef Leif Benson, can be found in the Cascade Dining Room, along with heartier fare and speciality beverages in the Ram's Head and Blue Ox bars or Wy'East kitchen in the main lodge.
For general contact information on Timberline Lodge, try: www.timberlinelodge.com

Zig Zag Inn, Mt. Hood
Built in the 1920's, Zig Zag Inn is set along route 26, which leads from Portland up to Mount Hood.
The somewhat dark and mysterious decor is reminiscent of a past era, complete with antler chandeliers and carved, highly polished tables in high backed booths. The adjoining bar makes for an all-permeating smoky atmosphere, along with the generous helpings of fried food on offer. Portions are more than generous, priced decently inexpensive and the service fairly friendly.
Toilets were quite clean.

Portland, Oregon
An interesting blend of older architecture, with influences of the University and many cultural blends come together in the older downtown area in the west of the city, complete with a small Chinatown, Chinese garden, museums and vast parks, set along the Columbia River. Big brand name shops, malls and eateries can be found along main thoroughfares in the downtown area.
Over bridges to the east of the city lies Portland International Airport, large shopping and industrial units, many Marinas and the famous floating houses set all along the sheltered islands and inlets next to Marina Drive.
I was fortunate enough to stay in a floating house, floating on unbelievably enormous and ancient logs, (up to six feet, plus, in diameter and thousands of years old) moored together by intricate fastenings and walkways. Communities are often close and each person's lifestyle reflects their connection to the water in unique, quirky and enterprising ways.
Transport around Portland is cheap and easy to access; with clean, frequent, modern buses and a new train/tram network, cleverly woven into the traffic system called: 'The Max'. Buses have bike hooks set on the front of the bus for passengers to hang their bikes on and 'The Max' trains also offer these bike hooks inside the carriages, with easy access from the ground.
For dog owners, Portland city has also set aside specific dog exercise fenced-in green areas, to the delight of all other park users.

Moonstruck Cafe, Portland
For the visiting or resident chocolate connoisseur, Moonstruck Cafe is an absolute must.
Beautifully presented rows of delicately decorated chocolates and pastries lined up in spotless glass shelves await the drooling purchaser, (complete with dustings of real gold!) along with coffees and beverages to go, or sit-in, at a scattering of tables within simple, but boldly coloured decor.
Prices reflect the quality and time gone into the making of such fine temptations and indulgence is definitely encouraged.

Newport Bay Restaurant, Portland
Set on North Center, over the bridge from Marina Drive, this seafood chain offers a wide and mouthwatering array of interestingly prepared fresh seafood.
Seating in high leather backed booths was comfortable, with an appropriately sea-themed decor.
Service was attentive, although dishes were not cleared away unless totally finished, resulting in plates of appetizers still left on the table, just as dessert arrived.
My associates indulged in many seafood dishes and found them to be excellent. I tried the (vegetarian) pasta and was disappointed to find a huge dollop of salt throughout the dish, which made me a little queasy after such a good appetizer. The staff were very suitably apologetic and this dish was taken off the bill, along with two free desserts.
Prices were very reasonable for this standard of cuisine and despite my salty encounter, I would recommend Newport Bay Restaurant.

Pizza Mia, Portland
Along North Anchor Way, set within a small building complex, lies a bright and breezy new pizzeria started by a well traveled owner who appreciates authentic Italian cooking.
The owner invested in some real pizza brick ovens set next to a counter, along with some appropriate marble table tops, warm colours, corner TV and a few soccer shirts hanging from the ceiling.
The happy staff also informed my colleagues and I that the owner recently had the place properly Feng-shui'd - (although having the water and (copper) metal together in the fountain and placing a table in line with a main entrance is actually not, (in my humble opinion) properly Feng-shuid)
Stuffed and thin crusts ooze flavours and cheeses you never knew you missed, while just having to choose the toppings could make your head spin.
Even the smaller portions are abundant and I wonder how many doggie bags the clientele use, to go......

Sal's Famous Italian Kitchen, Portland
Lovers of real Italian cooking will enjoy Sal's Famous Italian Kitchen in Killingsworth, to the east of Portland. Speedy attentive and enthusiastic (Italian/European) staff obviously enjoy making their clientele happy, amidst a setting of marble tables, fascinating photos of famous Italians and a large, well stocked bar.
Only recently opened, Sal's is apparently a winner with the locals, judging by the queue just to get inside the door. Food is very well presented and portions are more than generous, with very reasonable prices, reflecting the fine quality of food and service.
Nicely presented, clean toilets.
Highly recommended.

Washington
Washington is known for growing produce and especially fruit, with large expanses of fields for crops in the northeast and many industrial sized greenhouses along the west of the state.
While not necessarily as rugged as parts of Oregon, Washington boasts some impressive mountains, such as Mt. Rainier - with year round snow - visible when flying into Seattle.
Many islands dot the west coast, connected by bridges and ferries - with some interesting coastal communities still very much tied to the sea - with their love and expertise of all things nautical.
The American Navy has military bases stationed at certain areas off the west coast.
Be aware of Tsunami markings of coastal evacuation routes in flatter areas.

Port Townsend, Washington
Known as a 'Victorian style' town, Port Townsend offers visitors spectacular beach walks with views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Puget Sound, several parks, many historic buildings; including the impressive Coastal Artillery Museum and Fort Worden, Point Wilson Lighthouse and the Marine Science Center.
Built in 1902, Fort Worden was once an integral part of the Puget Sound harbour defense system, and is definitely worth a visit - especially for its proximity to great walks around Fort Worden State Park, with impressively huge concrete artillery support structures dotted all along the cliffs. The 434 acre park includes lodging in restored Victorian officer's houses, barracks and camp grounds, a theatre, museums, and conference facilities. Fort Worden houses several airship hangers for dirigibles, and was also the location used for the (1982) film, 'An Officer and a Gentleman.'
Within the Fort Worden State Park lies an area known as the Chinese Gardens, when Chinese immigrants farmed the land in the 1880s and raised fish in the lake.
From May to October, (on Wednesdays or Saturdays) you may discover the Port Townsend Farmers Market - with everything from fresh grown and baked produce, to art work, jewellery and herbal remedy products: www.ptfarmersmarket.org

Ferries from Port Townsend to Keystone are served by Washington State Ferries and are fairly regular, although watch out for holidays and weekends, where there are less sailing times available on this surprisingly busy ferry. For a normal size vehicle/driver, it costs: $8.20 (£1.30 U.K. Sterling - 2005) one way.
Website: www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/

Khu Larb Thai, Port Townsend, Washington
When visiting Port Townsend, I recommend you experience the excellent Thai Cuisine of Khu Larb Thai, on the corner of 225 Adams Street.
Judging by the queues to get in, locals and visitors have already discovered the subtle and spicy flavours of Khu Larb Thai's specially made sauces - with very fresh and varied sea foods, meat and vegetable dishes from an impressively extensive and very reasonably priced menu.
I visited the Khu Larb Thai several times with colleagues, and apart from tasting absolutely superb, all the meals were served surprisingly quickly considering how busy it was, by the ever smiling staff.
No M.S.G. is used in any of the cooking and a choice of 5 different levels of hot spices are available on many dishes.
Website: www.khularbthai.com

Seattle, Washington
Seattle has many interesting mixtures of old and modern architecture, based around the coastline.
The most well-known landmark includes the 605 foot Space Needle, next to the Experience Music Project and park, in the downtown area.
This quick ride up an (open view) lift to 'O' Deck for a fantastic panorama of the city costs US $12.50 (£6.60 UK Sterling) - spring 2004 price.
There is only one lift which holds about 20 persons, so queuing can be lengthy, even on the way down. The lift also stops at the 360 degree, slowly rotating, SkyCity restaurant, just below 'O' Deck.
Website: www.spaceneedle.com

Seattle Aquarium
November 2007
Visiting the Seattle Aquarium at the weekend may be a challenging time for anyone not used to large baby strollers being pushed into their ankles and screaming children suddenly banging on the display tanks with sticky fingers...(Just when you were starting to enjoy all the creatures interacting...) Needless to